49111 Coastal Engineering

This subject deals with the behaviour of water waves and their interactions with the coastline. Topics covered include: wave generation processes and wave forecasting methods; linear and nonlinear wave theories and their limits of validity; wave characteristics in deep, intermediate and shallow water depths; wave shoaling and breaking; wave refraction and diffraction; wave scattering and radiation; full and partial standing waves; field measurements and statistical analysis of random waves, estimation of extreme waves; tides and other long-period water level fluctuations; estuarine hydraulics; coastal sedimentation; coastline management; and physical and computer models of coastal processes.

Assessment: Assignments/reports (60 per cent), examinations (40 per cent).